Ascot Top Hats Ltd - Silk Top Hats for Royal Ascot, a top hat or bowler for any formal occasion

Hatters' equipment

Probably the most important device in a hatter's workshop is a device to measure the size and shape of an individual's head. The conformateur (also known as a conformature, conformer, or conformator) was invented in 1845 by a Frenchman called M. Allié. It was subsequently improved and patented by M. Henri Maillard in 1850. The conformateur is one of the most sort after devices, as it is no longer in manufacture. The system uses a 2-fold process to make a hat's shape specific to an individual. The conformateur first makes a scaled-down pattern of the shape of the head and then the formillion is used to re-size the pattern into a model in the same size and shape of the person who had been measured.

The conformateur & formillion


The standard Allié-Maillard conformateur consists of a number of vertical L-shaped ebony slats around the perimeter of the head are retained by a radial spring that keeps them firmly pressed against the head. They are in turn connected to metal spikes that protrude from the top in the shape of the head.	To use the conformateur first place a card under a retainer in the lid. The conformateur is then placed on the head with the lid open. Then the L-shaped ebony arms slide out to conform to the contours of the head.

The lid is then lowered and the two impression levers are squeezed to make a series of holes in the card matching the shape of the head being measured.	The card is then removed and trimmed to the shape of the impressions to provide a scaled-down version of the head shape.

Allié-Maillard formillion setup consists of a 2 pieces: The formillion and the base. The base has alignment spikes for positioning the card pattern.	The card pattern is first placed on the positioning spikes of the formillion base.

The locking thumbscrews of the formillion are loosened, and it is opened it to its maximum size. The blocking arms are carefully adjusted so that the end of each touches the edge of the pattern. They are then locked into place.	Finally, the formillion is removed from the base. The formillion is now a "hat block" in the same size and shape of the individual. It can then be used to form a hat to the individual's specific requirements.

Other hatters' equipment used by Ascot Top Hats

Ascot Top Hats use both old traditional tools as well as bringing some new modern devices and processes for the upkeep and repair of top hats. We have updated the ways in which an individual's head can be measured, allowing in the field measurements to be taken without the need of old delicate devices.


Our modern design conformateur eliminates the need for a formillion, as the pattern is created life-size.	The conformateur is placed upon the head, and the arms around the machine pressing inwards to fit the individuals shape.

In the field measurements can be taken with care by anyone with our Hatters Curve ©.	Traditional hat blocks are still used when needed.

Traditional heated hat block, to heat and mould silk hats.	Traditional hat steamer, to heat and mould felt hats.

Traditional hat stretcher used in length stretching.	Traditional hat stretcher used in bi-directional stretching.

Top Hat Care

Keeping care of your top hat is very important. At Ascot Top Hats, we store all our hats in new packaging. The old hat box can cause more damage to the hat if it is in bad condition. The following points should assist you in the routine up-keep of your hat. Should you need a velvet pad or hat brush, we would be happy to assist you.

Hats should be kept upside down stored on the crown in a hatbox or hat-case when not in use.
Hats should always be brushed after each use, before storing them in the box or case.
Brushes should be curved to allow brushing around the brim, and made of soft bristles.
Hats should be stored within in a dry, constant temperature atmosphere.
Hats that get wet in the rain should be dry naturally and then brushed afterwards with vigour.
The shiny lustre of silk plush can be maintained by regular brushing with a velvet pad.