Dress code
 
The following definitions of dress code should assist in planning the correct protocol for enjoyable events. Correct description of code variations is essential to prevent confusion and embarrassment of one's guests. Remember that on an invitation card the dress code should be on the bottom left, with the R.s.v.p. (if required) on the bottom right. Below is detailed the various descriptions of Dress code formats and a dictionary of terms.
 
 
Dress code description
 
White tie: White tie is considered formal evening attire. Worn traditionally to dinner, banquets, balls, the opera, the theatre, musicials, or to embassy and diplomatic events.
White tie preferred: This allows those whom do not posses white-tie to dress in black-tie instead. Though should be avoided if possible.
White tie optional: This should not be used. Equilivent to white-tie preferred and would confuse guests at to what is required of them.
Black tie: Traditionally semi-formal evening wear for dinner and used for other evening events, has become popular in the old colonies as a form of wedding dress code.
Black tie preferred: This allows those whom do not posses black-tie to dress attired in a dark suit instead. Though should be avoided if possible.
Black tie optional: This should not be used. Equilivent to black-tie preferredand would confuse guests at to what is required of them.
Morning dress: Traditional dress used for weddings during the day ( prior to 6pm) diplomatic and Royal events, such as Royal Ascot, garden parties and trooping the colour.
Formal: Refers to white-tie. Commonly confused by guests and should be avoided as some modern interpretations vary is what people consider it to be.
Semi-formal: Refers to black-tie Again even more confising with some modern interpretations.
Lounge suit: Every day quasi-formal events: Dark suit, white shirt, normal tie, and black shoes.
Casual: Every day events, where a tie is not required but respectful attire still necessary. One can still dress in lounge suit, or blazer (with or without a tie) and slacks, tweed or sporting jacket also appropriate depending on the event. Shoes may also be more relaxed, though still enclosed (no sandels).
National dress: Usually reserved for diplomatic events and similar functions, can be used as analternative to white tie or morning dress for foreigners.
Full dress: Usually reserved for military dress code in full parade or No1 uniform.
 
 
Dress code formats
 
 
White tie: Black evening tails, black evening tail dress trousers (2 stripes), collarless white marcella stiff bib shirt, plain white stiff attachable wing collar, white marcella self tie bow tie, white marcella wasitcoat, mother of pearl shirt studs, white cotton gloves, white pocket handkerchief, black silk socks and highly polished patent or black ballroom shoes. Depending on occassion: black silk top hat, white scarf, cane and black cape.
Black tie: Dinner jacket, dinner dress trousers (1 stripe), white dress shirt (marcella, pleated or plain), black self tie bow tie, cummberbund or waistcoat, pocket handkerchief, black socks and black polished shoes.
Morning dress: Morning tailcoat or frock coat, morning dress trousers, and waistcoat. Plain classic shirt or attachable collar shirt with four in hand tie for normal functions or wing or high collar with cravat. Depending on occassion: Top hat, cane and grey gloves.
Lounge suit: Dark 2 or 3 piece suit, white shirt, four in hand tie, dark socks and black polished shoes.
National dress: Dependant on country; English national dress is morning dress prior to 6pm or black tie if after 6pm unless another higher dress code (such as white tie) is specified.
 
 
Dictionary of terms
 
 
Jackets & coats:
Morning jacket: Incorrect term - it is a (tail)coat worn with trousers, it is not a jacket.
Morning coat:Generic term for coat used during the day typically with tails, but can have front skirts as with frock coat.
Morning tailcoat (tails): Single breasted tapers from front single waist button to long single wide back tail.
Morning suit: Only to be used if the morning coat has matching trousers and wasitcoat.
Evening tailcoat (Tails): Double breasted, does not fasten, silk or satin-faced lapels, double "fishtail" back tail.
Dinner jacket: Black (traditional) or white/ivory for temperate or summer venues. Single or double breasted with silk or satin-faced lapels.
Dinner suit: Incorrect term - it is a jacket worn with trousers, it is not considered a suit.
Mess jacket:Usually a double breasted Military Jacket, similar front cut to an Evening Tails though without the Tail! Can be worn to White Tie Functions if appropriate.
Prince Charlie jacket: Similar to mess lacket in size, double breasted with and buttons along length of sleeve cuff ribbed silk or satin-faced lapels. Used for evening wear white or black tie highland functions.
Argyle jacket: Used for morning dress highland functions.
Montrose doublet: Used for white tie dress highland functions.
Frock coat: Formal morning dress down to back of knees, with skirts on the front and back, double breasted.
Prince Edward jacket: Semi-formal morning dress ¾ length version of the frock coat, single breasted.
Notch lapel: A triangular cut inwards where the lapel joins the collar ( Classic for normal dayway suits)
Peak lapel: A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below collar line ( Classic for formalwear)
Shawl lapel: A smooth, rounded lapel used on dinner jackets .
Tuxedo: American term, see dinner jacket.
Cutaway: American term, see morning tailcoat.
Stroller: American term, see lounge suit or Prince Edward.
 
Trousers:
Dinner dress trousers: Black, traditional optional 1 stripe.
Evening dress trousers: Black, traditional optional 2 stripes.
Morning dress trousers: Traditional black & grey (with black tailcoat) or blue & grey (with blue tailcoat) hickory striped, or plain grey if worn with plain grey morning coat.
Formal trouser bottoms: Plain bottoms only, should never be cuffed.
 
Shirts:
Marcella shirt: A dress shirt with dimpled effect on front 'bib' worn with white tie (mandatory) or black tie (optional). Preferable with shirt studs, if not hidden buttons. French cuffs allowable with black tie, but single stiff cuff for white tie.
Pique shirt: See marcella shirt.
Pleated shirt: A dress shirt with pleats on either side of front section can be worn with black tie, but not white tie.
Classic shirt: The traditional formal shirt is white with buttons (preferably hidden) or stud closures. Optional french cuffs, can be worn with black tie, morning dress, but not white tie.
White tie/morning dress shirt: A collarless stiff-fronted shirt with chest 'bib' section heavily starched, Cuffs should also be starched in the same material style as 'bib'. Marcella for white tie and plain white for morning dress.
French cuffs: Fold back "double" cuff that required cuff links to hold in place.
Wing collar: A band that encircles the neck with turned-down points in front. Should always wear wings behind a bow tie.
Lay down collar: Standard style shirt collar folds over around the neck tie with a wide division between the points in front.
Band collar: A stiff collar that stands up vertical to the neck.
Penny collar: Similar to lay down collar but with rounded tips.
Imperal collar: See band collar.
High collar: A tall version of the imperial or wing collar.
Attachable collar: Very traditional collar, usually with white tie that attaches to collarless shirt using collar studs. Typically an attachable collar is half an inch bigger than your shirt size.
 
Ties:
Ascot tie: A wide necktie that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin with a tie tack or stickpin. Worn with a wing or upright collar shirt. Someties worn at weddings with morning dress, not often worn at Royal Ascot unless you want the classic look, best with a frock coat.
Cravat tie:Cravat is the French word for tie, but when used in style sence refers to either Ascot style tie, or "scrunchy/ruche" rumpled silk tie.
Bow tie: A short tie that is shaped like a bow when worn. Comes in 3 variants: Pre-tied version with fastened bow and adjustable neck strap - very unsophisticated; A self-tie variant that gentlemen should use with either adjustable hooks and eyes inside the neck strap; or a fixed 'clip-on' bow tie for use by bar and waitering / waitressing staff.
Four-in-hand tie: A standard, long, knotted necktie worn with a lay down collar.
 
Wasitcoats and cummberbunds:
Full back waistcoat: Traditional style.
Open back waistcoat: Typically a 'one size fits all', normally no useable pockets.
Vest: American term, see waistcoat.
Cummerbund: A silk (preferable) or satin sash worn at the waist and covering the trouser's waistband.
Note: Waistcoat or a Cummerbund is worn to cover the trouser waistband. Do not wear both. Waistcoats are traditionally grey of buff for weddings, grey for Royal Ascot, although modern tasteful styles are tollerated within reason. Cummerbunds are not required with a double breasted dinner suit (if done up) and cummerbund pleated folds always face up (to create a pocket to hold your theatre or opera tickets). Typically cummerbunds are pre-set with folds only visible at front with adjustable strap length behind, rather than traditional full length sash to wrap around the waist.
 
Pocket handkerchief / pocket square:
Matterhorn: 1 Pointed (triangluar) folded end.
Jungfrau: 2 Pointed folded ends.
Mont blanc: 3 Pointed folded ends.
Annapurna: 4 or more pointed folded ends.
Square ended: Folder with into square with plain rectangle exposed above the top of the lip of outside breast pocket.
Puffed: Best used with silk handkefchief - Although sounds simple there is an art to the 'puffed' look, remember it should be puffed and straight, not drooping downwards.
Note:Worn in left breast pocket of coat/jacket (the pocket was not made for cigarettes, mobile phones or sunglasses!). In olden days they were useful for flirtation. If a woman was interested in a certain man, she would draw the handkerchief across her cheek, which translated into I like you. If she did not like the man, she would draw the handkerchief through her hands.White linen or silk ( various colours) are considered the best with a hand-rolled edge. The colour of a pocket handkerchief should never exactly match the tie, but should simply 'coordinate' with it. If you choose to have a monogram (not considered debonair) on your handkerchief, never let it show.
 
Accessories & other items:
Boutonniere: Small flower worn at wedding by groom, groomsmen and men of the grooms immediate family. The groom should traditionally have his boutonniere especially picked form the bride's wedding bouquet.
Braces: Two supporting bands worn over the shoulders to support the trousers. Preferable buttoned, though most modern ones are clipped.
Cape: Black typically for evening / opera wear.
Cuff links: Ornamental accessory device of two parts joined by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through buttonholes to fasten shirt cuffs. Cuff links come in two forms. The moderen 'swivel-bar' and traditional chain links.
Collar studs: Uesd to secure an attachable collar to the collar band of shirt. Comes as pair with different front stud and back stud.
Gloves, grey: Used with morning dress.
Gloves, white: Used with evening dress. Required for white tie events.
Mess medals: Worn only on mess jackets. A smaller version of full medal. With white tie tails they are worn on a miniature bar brooch pinned onto the left lapel of a jacket. Medals should be "court mounted" so do not swing. The length of the miniature bar brooch will vary according to the number mounted, but it should not project beyond the edge of the lapel.
Miniature medals /insignia/awards: See mess medals.
Scarf, white: Silk (preferable) or satin used with evening dress.
Shirt studs: Small ornamental buttons mounted on short posts for insertion through eyelets on shirt instead of buttons Preferable over buttoned shirt. Should be mother of pearl if for white tie. Otherwise Black is traditional though many colours and styles are now available. Typically come with 3 studs (4th is a spare) as the cummerbund or waistcoat should cover lower stomach.
Tippling stick: Cane with built in flask/test tube for a "tipple" of drink.
Sunglasses: May be worn, but not at the same time as wearing a top hat.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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