The actual inside circumference may vary from exact measurements, and may even differ slightly from the original manufactured size. In the past the hat may have been heated and re-formed to fit a previous owner. A silk hat which has a gossamer shell should not be "steamed" ( as with felt hats) as the inside hard shell.will not expand. To manually work out one's approximate head size from the circumference take the measurement in inches and divide by Pi (3.142) then subtract 1/8 of an inch and you will have your approx English hat size. Note: US hat measurements are one size bigger than English sizes e.g. UK 7 1/8 is a US 7 1/4. Over the years people's heads have also have become bigger, so large size hats are harder to find as less were made years ago as people had smaller heads, making large sizes more valuable now in good condition. The average head size is now about size 7¼. Hat shape The head shape is also important and everyone's varies, some people have round, other elongated ovals. The shape is calculated by measured from the front of the forehead to the back, and from side to side at the widest point. The shape can only truly be measured using specialised tools, which we can provide. We always recommend a full fitting prior to buying a hat. The following list indicates the different shapes. Round oval is 5/8 inch longer than it is wide Regular oval is 1 3/8 inches longer than it is wide Long oval is 2 1/8 inches longer than it is wide X-Long oval is 2 7/8 inches longer than it is wide XX-Long oval is 3 5/8 inches longer than it is wide XXX-Long oval is 4 3/8 inches longer than it is wide We have created an Excel tool to calculate the shape and size based on a more refined formula. Right click here to download it: Hat Size & Shape Calc Vs0.1 Note: The tool is only for approximate guidance only and is a draft non-official release calculator. Terminology of a topper Band: Placed at the intersection of the crown and brim to traditionally to hold the hat's size. Typically felt (mourning band), or grosgrain (petersham band) Binding: Outer covering edge covering ends of brim & merino, typically grosgrain is used. Bow: Used more often on petersham bands than mourning bands, on left side to hide the stitching of the band. Brim: Stiff material at the bottom of the hat's crown horizontally all around the circumference of the hat, usually curved upwards at the sides and sometimes curved downwards at the front and back. Provides protection for the eyes. Crown: The main cylindrical body of the hat covering the top of the head. Grosgrain: From the French Gros=Coarse, Grain=Texture. A ribbon made of closely woven silk (or other material) with narrow horizontal ribs. Hatband: See band. Headband: See leather. Leather: Protective inside band made to make the fit more comfortable, also to take up perspiration during use. Lining: Inside protective covering of the Crown. Often can be silk, satin, or paper. Merino: Underneath of the brim, made of hatters cloth. Mourning Band: Type of band, sometimes wider than grosgrain band, traditionally worn in respect of death of another individual A symbol of grief or sorrow as famously worn by President Andrew Jackson at his inauguration in 1829, where he wore a top hat with a wide black mourning band to symbolize his loss and grief for his wife Rachel. Nap: Short fibres extending above the surface of cloth, creating a soft texture. Petersham Band: Otherwise called grosgrain band, ideal to prevent stretch. Plush: Silk plush, (fist called Hatters Plush) is the most famous material that antique top hats are made from. Ribbon: See band (ribbon is usually used if a "silk" or "silk grosgrain" band is used in preference to a standard grosgrain or felt band. Also used when describing the band for a top hat made for a lady). Saddled: Brim at the front and back is lower than the sides. So if placed down, the profile would be similar to a saddle. Sweatband: See leather. Tip: Top of the crown. Weeper: Black crepe worn around base of crown of hat, see mourning band. © 2006 Ascot Top Hats Ltd. | Site Terms & Conditions | Privacy Statement | Contact |